There’s just no let up between New York and London Fashion Weeks.
The first day began with “feminine swagger and a boyish insouciance” from Zöe Jordan’s collection (entitled Foundations), in a muted palette shot through with bright pinks and oranges. The collection was all about structure, with influences from Italy and London.
Next up was one of my favourite designers. I fell in love with Bora Aksu as soon as I saw those woollen ants. This time, inspiration came from the Twenties and Vaudeville sisters Rosie and Jenny Dolly – their ambiguous mischief, fame, show costumes and ultimately their downfall. The show notes explained “The Dolly sisters
became the poster girls of the Vaudeville acts …their fame hanging on the near-perfectly synchronised mix of innocence and mischief… for a few short years however, they were amongst the greatest and glamorous women in the world.” Although there wasn’t the familiar colour and print, there was an exploration of textures – and a playful mix of masculine and feminine, and tough leather with gentle lace. There were flapper skirts, high necks, dropped waists and crocheted headbands.
Designer duo Fyodor Golan were up next, with a collection I can only describe as dramatic. Since winning the Fashion Fringe at Covent Garden award in 2011, their rise to catwalk-must-see and designer darlings has been stellar. The collection itself was reminiscent of a budding flower – pleats and raindrop beadwork in whites, blues and oranges – followed by dramatic, shimmering eveningwear in organza, chiffon, silk. Tailored biker jackets translate this couture-like collection into something more accessible for mere mortals, without taking away from the overall glamour and sensuous nature of the Fyodor Golan woman. Even the setting – clean white tiles and robin’s egg blue walls – lent itself to this kind of style.
I have to admit, these next two designers weren’t really on my radar until this London Fashion Week.
Jena.Theo: This presentation was all bright colours and statement prints. With swept-over hair, the models paraded in Nineties-like dip dies and chunky boots. You can see it all here and see the show highlights here.
KTZ: This ultra-cool brand is full of Eighties hip hop inspiration – bomber jackets, baggy pants and exaggerated peaked caps. This collection drew its ideas from Tarot – from the prints to the colours to the face masks. You can see it all here and see the show highlights here.
Then there was Felder Felder…