Day Five is the last day of London Fashion Week as we know it… menswear collections showed today, but already in Italy, Milan Fashion Week is underway. So what did Day Five have in store? Apart from the beautiful bags and purses and shoes at Anya Hindmarch? Well… just look below for my picks!
This was one of the most constructed and sculptural collections to come down the catwalk. Filled with Victorian bustles, neck ruffles and lampshade shaped dresses. Tactile fabrics were blended with bright prints of spoons, phone dials, typewriter keys, luggage tassels and clothes hangers. There were even real yellow pencils on one dress! Head-to-toe print might not be easy to wear on the highstreet, but this loud and confident collection shone on the catwalk. Some of the dresses reminded me of bright butterflies – in iridescent shades and floating hemlines.
Who else could pull off 60s details, 20s minimalism and body-con but David Koma? The dark-shaded collection was full of sheer panels, chain emblems and peplums (much like Peter Pilotto). Koma’s customer might not be your typical highstreet girl, but his sharp silhouettes and keen eye for detail makes his designs so fashion forward that it’s not hard to see why he’s a favourite of celebrities.
Emilio de la Morena
There was a distinctly Spanish feel to this AW’12 collection – a return to the designers roots perhaps? Most definitely; the designs drew on Spanish heritage and style, doing sexy in a subtle way. Maxi skirts were layered under hooded capes, and petrol blue, blood-red and evergreen shades lengthened his cocktail dresses into demure yet sassy figure-hugging shapes. Gone were the body-con designs of before, and instead silhouettes recreating the costume de ceremonia from Anso in the Alto Aragon, and a darker, more grown-up Emilio de la Morena.
Vogue‘s Tilly Macalister-Smith described the Ashish show as “Brixton meets Bombay”. With its eye-watering colours and mish-mash of tie-dye prints, slogans and sequins, I’m inclined to agree. Knitted sweaters were thrown over sequined gowns, and the sentiment “Be Happy” was woven in to the last jumper to come down the catwalk. Ashish loves her festival wear and hippy prints, and that was still clear in this AW’12 collection.
Maki Aminaka and Marcus Wilmont make up the design duo behind the brand, Aminaka Wilmont. Their biggest collection to date showed their most minimalist designs to date. Their ideas for the collection – serpents, water, gems, quartz and crystals – translated into pared-down smoothly draped dresses, skirts, tops and trousers with layers creating original shapes and a highly wearable designs. Colours were a blend of black, dove grey, white, and then bright rainbow prints in bold purples, greens and blues adding flashes of cheeriness in an otherwise sombre affair.