Day One of London Fashion Week didn’t let us down (just check out the glitter at Fyodor Golan, above!). Stars such as Peaches Geldof, Caroline Flack and Pixie Lott (in my current lust-after, Charlotte Olympia cat shoes) graced the front row, whilst the designers proved what London is all about. Check out my top five collections below, and scroll down for links to the whole day’s catwalk reports, courtesy of Vogue. And if you fancy watching it all happen live, but haven’t got one of those precious LFW tickets, nip across to ELLE UK for video streamings.
Antoni & Alison
After 5 years away from LFW, Antoni Burakowski and Alison Roberts have been welcomed back with open arms. And how better to celebrate the duo’s 25th anniversary than opening London Fashion Week? They didn’t disappoint – and wanting to get away “from the ‘quirk'” – with a show full of wispy shifts, embellished by sequins, brocade, paper bag hems and fringe collages. Colours were bright and positive – tan, purple, pink, mustard yellow and pale green, with touches of chocolate, sky blue and sunshine yellow.
Henry Darger and his stories and pictures of The Vivian Girls in The Realms of the Unreal inspired Bora Aksu’s collection. This particular designer never fails to overjoy me with his confidence. With more print than normally seen, the collection began with muted colours of pink, peach, grey and white. His signature bows were knitted in to create triangular points around the skirt, before drapes of tulle and fitted pencil skirts with cape jackets, prim shirts and baby doll shapes. The collection was very much inspired by the Vivian girls’ naïvety and innocence according to the designer, and it could be seen in the ethereal quality of the models. The colours were ramped up with orange floral against fuchsia dresses towards the end, whilst cream flowers against a grey fitted background kept with the mature theme.
“[Kate Moss] in the Johnny Depp age” is how Vogue described the style behind this collection. This season was inspired by Ryan McGinley’s photographs of nudes in geological caves, which meant a colour spectrum of minerals (copper, orange, brown, cream) and abstract prints taken from rock formations on the skirts and dresses. It felt supremely summery, with chunky knits in scarlet and pink as a brief nod to winter. Oversized leather and shearling coats came in navy or black, and slim eveningwear dresses were embellished with bugle beading.
Forget the typical scrum for front row, PPQ has certainly grown up this year. There was a strong Parisian chic feel in monochromatic black, grey and cream, with cinched waists and oversized collars on the coats, and pussybow blouses and A-line skirts underneath. The eveningwear was a celebration of the female form, with saucy flashes of shoulder. The last of the collection gave the only splash of colour – a rich emerald green. Oh… and there were bikes (100 PPQ-style customised bikes will go on sale in March from Rule).
It was a British affair at Wickstead’s Belgravia atelier, from the collection to the offerings of sweets, cucumber sandwiches and Champagne. The designs were taken from the 18th Century, with ballooning layered skirts and square necklines but brought up-to-date with straight pencil skirts and block pleated baby dolls skirts. Predominant colours were tan, rose, coffee, burgundy and black; from the full-skirted organza dresses with horse prints, to cashmere princess coats. This collection was sex appeal wrapped in country houses.
Antoni & Alison
Basso & Brooke